Join fellow TAS members on a tropical trip of a lifetime!

Panama's Canopy Tower
& Canopy Lodge
June 2 – 9, 2007

See the Trip report    PDF

Panama is a great destination for first time travelers to the Tropics, and seasoned travelers will find it to be a unique experience. In this one week trip you will stay at two of the top birding lodges in Central America, the Canopy Tower in the Gamboa area and the Canopy Lodge in El Valle, a quaint village in the center of an extinct volcano.

At the Canopy Tower, overlooking Soberanía National Park as well as the Panama Canal, one has eye-level-with-the-canopy views of Blue Cotinga, Green Shrike-Vireo, Keel-billed Toucan and more, as well as monkeys and sloth. And that's before we even step foot off the property! The proximity to Pipeline Road is a plus, and you will spend a full day birding what the Spring 2006 Living Bird, the magazine of the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology, calls “the hottest birding spot in Central America.”

In El Valle, about 2 hours from Panama City, a different habitat will give you a chance to see some birds found only in these foothills of the dry Pacific Forest, such as Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, Lance-tailed Manakin, Rufous-and-white Wren, and Rosy Thrush-Tanager. Around the very comfortable lodge, the feeders tend to bring in Crimson-backed, Blue-gray, Dusky-faced and Plain-colored tanagers, Social Flycatcher, Ruddy-ground Dove, Barred Antshrike, Yellow-faced Grassquit, Rufous-tailed and Violet-headed hummingbirds.

This trip will show you that Panama is more than just a canal. Don't worry, though, you'll spend some time birding around the locks of the Canal and have an opportunity to see ships navigating the 8th Wonder of the World. Additionally, you will get a chance to ride the very first trans-continental railroad, one of the great train rides of the world. The train follows a picturesque path across the Isthmus of Panama, flanking the Panama Canal, passing through lush rainforests, cruising alongside the Canal’s locks, through the historic Gaillard Cut and gliding over causeways in Gatun Lake.

Also, in furthering the mission of Travis Audubon's Latin America Committee, we have made special arrangements for you to meet member(s) of Panama Audubon at dinner, and to learn about their projects. Panama Audubon has been a force in habitat protection and getting laws passed that help the environment.

Panama is a year-round destination, and while locals call June the 'Green Season' because of fairly regular afternoon showers, the landscape is lush green and the birding is always fantastic. In a second article in the Spring 2006 issue of Living Bird, Mel White writes with great enthusiasm about his trip to the Canopy Tower and Canopy Lodge during the Green Season, and he was more than happy with his bird list.

The Canopy Tower and Lodge employ some of the best bird guides in Panama; among them is Carlos Bethancourt. Although young, Carlos knows the forest like his own back yard, which it is, as he grew up in a small village around the old Canal Zone. He tells of visits to his grandmother's house and watching birds whose names he didn't even know. Now he knows their names in Spanish, English, and Latin, as well as their behavior, mating habits, and calls. After high school in Panama, Carlos earned a scholarship through USAID to study at Mt. Hood Community College in Gresham, Oregon, where he began his formal studies in ornithology. Carlos is quick, knowledgeable and a caring guide; you are in good hands.

Finally, a portion of each participant's fee will benefit the work of the Travis Audubon Society, and you will receive a tax-receipt from Travis Audubon documenting this.

Saturday, June 2 - Depart for Panama City. Upon arrival, you will be welcomed by a representative of the Canopy Tower, who will escort the group on the 45-minute drive to the Canopy Tower. You'll be birding in the tropics within an hour of landing!

The Canopy Tower was built by the United States Air Force to house powerful radar used in the defense of the Panama Canal. In 1996 the tower and its 35 acres of rainforest were transferred to Panama in compliance with the Torrijos-Carter Treaty. A local businessman and conservationist, Raúl Arias de Parra, transformed the radar tower into an exclusive ecolodge. The Canopy Tower is located in the heart of Soberanía National Park and is literally surrounded by great birding locations. The Canopy Tower has five levels that offer different views of the forest around it. The flat roof is a great place to watch the canopy, as well as the Panama Canal and, in the distance, the skyline of the city. The top floor, covered by a 30 foot high geo-tangent dome (a variation of Buckminster Fuller's famous geodesic dome), is used as the main dining area, and is completely surrounded by panoramic windows. The floors below house the bedrooms. Below the rooms, a mezzanine with more windows adds viewing opportunities of the lower levels of the forest canopy. Finally, the ground floor houses exhibits about the environment and the surrounding forest and the animals that live in it. Guest rooms at the Tower are simple but very comfortable. All of the double rooms have 2 twin beds, a small desk and chair, private bath with hot water, hairdryers, and environmentally safe soaps and shampoos. A limited number of guaranteed single rooms are available and they share one bathroom. These single rooms are more rustic than other rooms and are thus offered at a discount. Raúl Arias' sister, Coquita, is a celebrity chef in Panama and has designed the menus. We think you'll be happy with the delicious and creative food, utilizing local produce.
Sunday, June 3 – This morning you’ll be up with the birds for the morning chorus! Although you can see lots of wildlife from your bedroom window, the roof of the tower is the place with incredible views of not only birds, monkeys and other wildlife, but also the surrounding forest canopy, the Panama City skyline, and ships passing through the Guilliard Cut of the Panama Canal. Your morning coffee time will never be the same!

At mid-morning you’ll start exploring the forests of Central Panama and walk down Semaphore Hill Road. This paved road is a little more than a mile long and passes through the forest of Soberanía National Park. Here you will get a chance to see birds and mammals that spend their lives closer to the forest floor, like antbirds and Agouti.
After lunch you'll head to Summit Gardens, a park managed by the Mayor of Panama City. Here you'll find a small zoo where you can get a better look at King Vultures, Great Curassows and four species of macaw, as well as Jaguar, Spider Monkey, and a host of other mammals. The botanical gardens are great for migratory warblers and other forest-edge species, and Blue Cotinga are seen every once in a while.

The Harpy Eagle is Panama's national bird and the park has a "state of the art" Harpy Eagle Exhibit by SONY Corp., with films about this magnificent bird, a full-size nest, and several panels which trace the importance of the Harpy in Panamanian history and culture dating back to Pre-Columbian gold artifacts. There are also two live specimens of this bird in a gigantic aviarium. These birds are used in the Raptor Breeding Program of the Peregrine Fund, which was recently moved to Panama from Boise, Idaho.

Later today you’ll visit Miraflores Lock and watch ships as they pass through the Panama Canal. The Panama Canal is approximately 80 Km long, connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. This waterway was cut through one of the narrowest saddles of the isthmus that joins North and South America. The Canal uses a system of locks - compartments with entrance and exit gates. The locks function as water lifts: they raise ships from sea level (the Pacific or the Atlantic) to the level of Gatun Lake (26 meters above sea level); ships then sail the channel through the Continental Divide. Each set of locks bears the name of the townsite where it was built: Gatun (on the Atlantic side) and Pedro Miguel and Miraflores (on the Pacific side). The lock chambers, or steps, are 33-35 meters wide by 304.8 meters long. The maximum dimensions of ships that can transit the Canal are 32.3 meters in beam, draft (their depth reach) is 12 meters and 194.1 meters long, depending on the type of ship. This ship size is known as Panamax. The fresh water used to raise and lower vessels in each set of locks comes from Gatun Lake by gravity; it comes into the locks through a system of main culverts that extend under the lock chambers from the sidewalls and the center wall. The narrowest portion of the Canal is Culebrea Cut, which extends from the north of Pedro Miguel Locks to the south edge of Gatun Lake at Gamboa. This segment is approximately 13.7 km long and is carved through the rock and shale of the Continental Divide. Ships from all over the world transit daily through the Panama Canal. Some 13-14 thousand vessels use the Canal each year. In fact, commercial transportation activities through the Canal represent approximately 5% of world trade. The Canal has a work force of approximately 9,000 employees and operates 24 hours a day, 365 days per year, providing transit service to vessels of all nations without discrimination. Panama Canal Authority

We have made special arrangements for you to have dinner this evening with members of the Panama Audubon Society. You can learn about some of their projects, including a new annotated checklist, a birding trail map for the Canal area and a guide for finding birds in Panama. Meetings such as this further the mission of Travis Audubon's Latin America Committee.

Monday, June 4 – Pipeline Road Many people think this is the highlight of a birding trip to the tropics. According to an article in the Spring 2006 issue of Living Bird, 'Panama's famed Pipeline Road is the hottest birding spot in Central America'. In fact, the Camino del Oleoducto 'has a reputation for being one of the best all-around birding spots in the world.' The authors, Noah Strycker and Douglas Robinson, are from Oregon State University. Robinson's dissertation research was done along Pipeline Road, so he knows whereof he writes.

Pipeline Road was constructed to accompany an oil pipeline running across the width of Panama during WWII, on the chance the Canal might become obstructed through enemy action. Although the pipeline was never used, the road has been maintained (kind of), and currently is visited almost exclusively by birders. Soberanía National Park was created in 1980 to protect lowland rainforest along the eastern edge of the canal, and Pipeline Road runs into the park. In addition to 525 species of birds, the park is home to monkeys, sloth, agoutis, toads, iguanas, bats, and butterflies, as well as numerous fascinating insects. Here you should see trogons, oropendolas, honeycreepers, puffbirds, motmots, antbirds, and manakins, just to name a few.

As mentioned, Pipeline Road is only marginally maintained. The upside to this is that the area is pristine lowland forest. The downside is, well – there is none! You will travel by 4-wheel drive vehicles along the road and walk the smaller trails. This is an area to be well protected for sun, rain and insects.

After dinner, you’ll once again walk the road leading up to the Tower and look for owls and potoos, and possibly a few night-active mammals like Two-toed Sloth, Kinkajous and Rothschild's Porcupine. At night, the forest changes into a completely different world.

Tuesday, June 5 – Achiote Road This day requires an early departure, but we think it's worth it. You will cross over the locks to the western side of the canal and have opportunities to see some great birds along Achiote Road on the Caribbean side of Panama. This spot is probably one of the best places to search for diurnal raptors as well as specialties like Spot-crowned Barbet, Black Hawk-Eagle, Rufous-crested Coquette, Montezuma Oropendola, Brown-hooded Parrot, Black-bellied Wren, Pied Puffbird and rarities like Gray-cheeked Nunlet and White-headed Wren.

A picnic lunch will be in the field. Your return from the Atlantic to the Pacific will follow the route of the first transcontinental railroad line built in the Americas. The train follows a picturesque path across the Isthmus of Panama, flanking the Panama Canal, passing through lush rainforests, cruising alongside the Canal’s locks, through the historic Gaillard Cut and gliding over causeways in Gatun Lake. When you arrive at the train station near Panama City, you’ll be met by your driver and returned to the Canopy Tower for one last night.

Wednesday, June 6 - No need to wake-up early today. After a leisurely breakfast and a last look at the birds from the observation deck of the Canopy Tower, you’ll board a comfortable, air-conditioned bus for the 2-hour ride to El Valle de Antón. Your home for the next three days will be the Canopy Lodge. After lunch, you will start birding the foothills by visiting the nearby Cariguana Trail, where you can expect to see some of the specialties of this rich avian region.

The Canopy Lodge in El Valle de Anton, another project of Raúl Arias de Parra, was finished in the fall of 2005. El Valle is about 60 miles from Panama City. For many years this has been the favorite vacation spot for residents of Panama City. It is also the home of one of the best craft markets in Panama. Known as the "Sunday Market", locals sell their crafts all week long, and this is a good place for souvenir shopping. El Valle is also called Crater Valley, as it sits in the crater of an extinct volcano that exploded 5 million years ago. The resultant scenery is quite dramatic - a steep valley surrounded by jagged peaks and filled with flowers, streams and verdant forests. The lodge is built next to a lovely mountain stream and adjacent to the protected area of Cerro Gaital Natural Monument. The Lodge consists of several beautiful and large bedrooms, each with two queen beds, private bath with hot water and hairdryer. The rooms have huge windows, and doors that open to large patios overlooking a stream. A limited number of guaranteed single rooms are available in the Canopy Cottage, and they share a bathroom. These single rooms are more rustic than other rooms and are thus offered at a discount. Meals are taken in a covered, outdoor dining room and you'll again have the opportunity to dine on delicious, local food.

Thursday, June 7 - Today you will wake up early and go birding around the mountain trails surrounding the crater, where it is possible to find one of the most sought after species in neo-tropical birding: the Rufous-vented Ground Cuckoo.
After lunch, those who wish will also have the option to experience The Canopy Adventure; a series of zip lines high in the canopy by which travelers can explore the rain forest using safe and modern climbing techniques.

Friday, June 8 - Another day of birding in the foothills will take you early in the morning to the northern rim of the crater to explore the trails of the Chorro Macho private reserve.
In the afternoon you will visit the private gardens of a local birder who maintains well-attended feeders attracting certain foothill specialties difficult to see otherwise, like the striking Flame-rumped Tanager and the rare White-lined Tanager. Perhaps the biggest highlight of this amazing birding spot is the huge colony of Chestnut-headed Oropendolas located in a group of Eucalyptus trees right next to the feeders. These magnificent birds come down to the feeders and dwarf the other participants of the feast. This is a great opportunity to take close-up pictures of a bird normally seen high in the trees.

Saturday, June 9 - This will be an early morning. After breakfast we will drive back to Panama City and catch our return flights home.

PRICE:
Price per person in double room: $1695.00
Price per person in guaranteed single room: $1575.00

WHAT'S INCLUDED?
· Lodging for 7 nights
· All meals
· Roundtrip transfers between airport and hotel
· Local transportation
· Guide services of the Canopy Tower and Canopy Lodge
· Guided tour of Summit Gardens including Harpy Eagle exhibit
· Miraflores Lock tour
· Park Entry fees
· Train Ride
· Dinner and presentation with representatives of Panama Audubon
· Basic gratuities for lodge staff and guides
· Travel Guard Group Insurance Protection Plan
· A portion of each participant's fee will benefit the work of the Travis Audubon Society, and you will receive a tax-receipt from Travis Audubon documenting this.

WHAT'S NOT INCLUDED?
· Airfare and air taxes
· $5 tourist card, collected by airline at departure from the USA
· Panama Departure taxes of US $20 (as of printing), to be paid at departure from Panama
· Alcoholic beverages
· Special gratuities
· Phone calls, laundry, any other items of a personal nature
· Canopy Adventure in El Valle

THESE FEES ARE BASED ON MINIMUM 10 PASSENGERS

Interested in other travels in Panama before or after this tour? Contact Panama Boutique™ for ideas and pricing. panamaboutique@yahoo.com

REQUIREMENTS FOR U.S. CITIZENS TO ENTER PANAMA
(from traveldocs.com)
TOURIST TRAVEL
· U.S. Passport must be valid 3 months beyond intended stay
· Tickets and Documents for return or onward travel
· Tourist Card issued by airline carrier at departure from the USA
· Vaccinations International Certificate of Vaccination for Yellow Fever required if arriving from infected area within 5 days

Citizens of other countries must contact their embassy for any travel requirements.


RECOMMENDED READING:
A Guide to the Birds of Panama (Second edition) by Robert Ridgely and John Gwynne. Princeton University Press, 1992

A Neotropical Companion by John C. Kricher. Princeton University Press, 1999

A Path between the Seas: The Creation of the Panama Canal by David McCullough. Simon and Schuster, 1999.

For these and other books, please visit www.abasales.com


RECOMMENDED CLOTHING:
For birding in the tropics, we suggest lightweight clothing, including long pants and long-sleeved shirts. Sunscreen, a hat, an umbrella, rain poncho or similar, and insect repellant are highly recommended. Comfortable boots or walking shoes for hikes are suggested and waterproof boots will be handy for muddy trails. When not out in the field, dress will be very casual.

RESERVATIONS

Panama Boutique™
PO Box 2388, Austin, TX 78768-2388
Tel: 512-217-4814, 217-4836
panamaboutique@yahoo.com

 

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